Gasthof Goldener Löwe. A-6130 Schwaz · Husslstraße 4
Steak and potatoes! When done right, there are few things that beat this classic, comforting combo. Okay, maybe chicken and potatoes or even turkey and spuds but that’s beside the point. With the abundance of potatoes and the presence of cows all over the region, it comes as no surprise that you can find steak and potatoes in most restaurants here in Tyrol.
The dish of the day at Gasthof Goldener Löwe happens to be a round steak with rösti potatoes, vegetables, and a salad. Arriving first, the mixed salad is always served fresh. The vibrant vegetables are varied and vivid. Whether it’s the chopped iceberg lettuce, the stunning radicchio, acidic potato salad, sweet grated carrots, thinly sliced cucumbers sprinkled with dill, white kraut, shredded parsnips, or tomato wedge, there’s a lot to choose from. Everything is topped with a splash of balsamic, which gives some tang to the vegetables.
A relatively inexpensive cut of meat, round steak is inevitably going to be chewy when cooked quickly (as when prepared for a steak). The tough muscle fibers and shortage of fat and marbling make this particular cut of meat less tender than others. Unless it is marinated, tenderized, or cooked slowly, round steak is going to be somewhat tough and harder to chew than, for instance, a top sirloin. With that said, the steak is indeed rather firm and a chore to slice through. As it is decently seasoned, it tastes okay. Though the rump steak in the dish isn’t overly impressive, it doesn’t exactly ruin the meal.
The fragrant and powerful flavors of the herb butter sitting on top of the meat and the creamy and crispy potatoes on the side make up for the beef’s shortcomings. The herbs in the butter add sensational flavor to the steak; the buttery texture contributes a creaminess and richness that combats the meat’s chewiness. Potatoes are compact and formed into circular discs, creating a slightly creamy consistency. This quality counters the Rösti’s exterior perfectly – since they are fried, a crispy crust develops all around the surface. This contrast of textures adds an extra dimension to the plate.
Overall, the dish of the day gets the job done. 15 euros is an acceptable price for a filling meal. The herb butter and rösti grated potatoes shine in the dish and are incredibly delicious. In all, the steak, potatoes, and vegetables (plus the mixed salad) form a classic, straightforward meal that is satisfying and hard to beat. You have the bright and crisp steamed vegetables on one end, the meaty steak topped with a piping of rich herb butter in the middle, and the crunchy and creamy potatoes on the other side. What more can you ask for?